Pink Butterfly Lace Square

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Center Butterfly

1. Round 1: Start with a magic ring. 8 sc in MR (8)
2. Round 2: Inc in each st around (8 inc) (16)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x8 (24)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x8 (32)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x8 (40)
6. Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x8 (48)
7. These first six rounds create a stable, circular base from which the butterfly wings will radiate. Place four small removable stitch markers to mark quadrant boundaries (every 12 sts) — these guide wing placement.
8. Round 7: 1 sc in each st around (48)
9. Round 8: 1 sc in each st around (48)
10. Round 9: *Ch6, sk next 6 sts, sc in next 6 sts; rep from * around (4 ch-arches, 4 sc blocks) (48 total element positions)
11. Round 9 establishes four wide chain arches that will anchor the upper and lower wings. The pattern uses 4 quadrants; each quadrant will form one wing half (upper and lower).
12. Round 10: Working into sc blocks only: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) in each 6-st sc block to build first petal base (4 petals) (48 stitches counted as 4 petals)
13. Round 11: Along each ch6 arch: join, sc, (ch3, sk2, sc) x2, ch3, sl st to edge — this adds 3 small arches between petals (work this across 4 arches) (12 small arches)
14. Keep the long tail of the magic ring woven in at the back to stabilize the center — it will be hidden by the butterfly body petals. Work the next rounds with consistent loop height.
15. Round 12: Form inner long-loop petals: Working into the top of the (3 dc) section of each petal from Round 10, pull up a long loop (lp) approximately 1.25" (3 cm) and secure with a sc — repeat 6 times across that petal to create a raised inner set (4 petals with 6 long loops each)
16. Round 13: Secure long loops: sc around each cluster working (sc, sc in next lp, sl st to base) to flatten and even the petal; finish with 1 sc between petals (48)
17. Round 14: Transition round: 1 sc in each st and ch-space around, using sl st joins across arches to keep edge neat (48)
18. Round 15: Begin lower wing foundation: In the spaces left between upper petals, work (sc, ch5, sc) to create 4 elongated loop anchors that will be built into the lower wing shape (4 anchors)
19. The long-loop petal technique requires consistent loop height — measure loops on your finger or with a small ruler each time to make symmetrical wings. If loops are too tall they will flop; too short they will not read as petals.
20. Round 16: Work into each ch5 anchor: (hdc, 3 dc, dtr, 3 dc, hdc) to shape a solid lower wing pad (4 pads) — base stitch count remains grouped into the four quadrants
21. Round 17: Create layered texture: around each lower pad work one round of (sc, BLO: 8 sc) to define the wing edge and create a ridge (total ridges x4)
22. Round 18: Between lower and upper wing structures work (ch4, sl st into next anchor) x8 providing mesh that will later be turned into scalloped openness (8 ch4 meshes)
23. At this stage the center should resemble a small round with four raised upper petals and four lower pads separated by chain meshes. Check symmetry — you should have 4 quadrants of similar shape and loop height before continuing to openwork rounds.
24. Round 19: Start wing outlining: Along outer edge of upper petals work (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) in each quadrant’s top petal (accent ridge) (4 outlines)
25. Round 20: Outline lower wing pads similarly: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) around each pad, then sl st to next quadrant (4 lower outlines)
26. Use a stitch marker to mark the tip of each wing outline. These four tips become anchor points when we expand into the square mesh and begin corner construction.
27. Round 21: Even round: 1 sc in each st and into chain loops around the butterfly unit to tidy edges and bring stitch count to a consistent foundation for mesh. Aim for 64 even stitches around the butterfly base (64)
28. Round 22: (1 sc, ch4) x16 around (forming 16 ch4 loops) (64)
29. Round 23: Into each ch4 loop: (sc, ch3, sc) making little arches that begin to open the lace (16 little arches) (64)
30. These stitches create a ring of arches around the butterfly and convert the circular base into a square-friendly openwork ring. Keep counts even: 16 arches evenly spaced around four wing quadrants gives excellent symmetry.
31. Round 24: (sc, ch6, sc) into every second ch4 arch (8 larger arches) and sc into the alternate arches (balance of 8 small sc) — elements remain balanced into 16 segments (64)
32. Round 25: Working into each ch6 large arch: sc, (ch3, sl st) x3, sc to create triple chain fans — these fans will become the building blocks toward the square corners (8 fans total) (64)
33. Round 26: Round of joining: sc in each small sc and anchor sc in each fan to produce a tidy ring (64)
34. At the end of Round 26 the butterfly center is stabilized and surrounded by a band of arches and fans. This band is the base for expanding into the four-sided lace by working quadrant expansions out from each fan.

Wing and Quadrant Expansion

1. Round 27: Begin quadrant expansions: For each of the 4 fans, attach yarn at fan base and work (sc, ch8, sc) into fan top to start a broad arch for the corner area (4 broad arches) (64)
2. Round 28: Build arch mesh: Into each ch8 arch work (sc, ch3) x2, sc to form two linked chain loops per quadrant arch (8 loops) (64)
3. Round 29: Extend lace: 1 sc into each sc and chain-space around to stabilize (64)
4. Round 30: Increase round for square shaping: In each quadrant do (sc, inc in next st, sc) across the quadrant base — adding 2 sts per quadrant for total increase of 8 (72)
5. Adding a small increase at the quadrant base nudges the piece into a rounded-square/diamond shape. Work slowly and compare opposite quadrants to keep the whole motif square.
6. Round 31: Work even: 1 sc in each st around (72)
7. Round 32: Form mesh grid: *sc in next 2 sts, ch5, sk 3 sts* repeat around to create a regular ch5 lattice for the sides (72 elements)
8. Round 33: Into each ch5: sc, ch3, sc (24 ch5s if counting across all four sides) — creates 24 small arches (72)
9. Count the ch5s per side to ensure even spacing for corner motifs later. At this stage you should have 6-7 ch5 arches per side depending on your stitch distribution — adjust slightly to keep corners centered.
10. Round 34: Round of joins: sc in each st and into arch centers to anchor (72)
11. Round 35: Begin shaping the side scallops: *sc in next 3, (picot: ch3, sl st in base) in next st, sc in next 2, ch4, sc* repeat across each side to start a delicate scallop motif (72)
12. Round 36: Refine scallops: sc into each small loop created, then in the ch4 spaces work (hdc, 3 dc, hdc) to create little bumps along the side (72)
13. Side scallops visually separate the sides from corner clusters — keep picots small and consistent. If picots stick out too far, reduce to ch2 picots instead of ch3.
14. Round 37: Work even sc around to tidy the side motifs and prepare for corner medallions (72)
15. Round 38: At four corner anchor points (marked earlier at wing tips) start corner extension: attach yarn at each corner marker and ch10 to begin corner foundation (4 ch10s) (72)
16. Round 39: Into each corner ch10: (sc, ch5, sc, ch5, sc) forming a layered fan structure that will become the floral corner base (4 corner fans) (72)
17. Corner fans should be worked symmetrically: place stitch markers at the two sides of each corner fan to ensure balanced petal placement when you later form the small flower motif.
18. Round 40: Work between corners: 1 sc in each side st and into each small arch so the corners remain connected (approx 80 sts after slight expansion; target 80)
19. Round 41: Even round: sc around across all stitches (80)
20. Round 42: Prepare corner flowers: in each corner fan base work (sc, ch3) x5 to create 5 small chain loops that will become flower petals (5 loops per corner, 20 loops total) (80)
21. Round 43: Work petals: in each loop work (long lp pulled to match other petals 1.0-1.25" (2.5-3 cm), secure with sc) repeat 5 times per corner to form 5 raised petals (4 small flowers) — anchor petals with a round of sc around corner (80)
22. The corner flowers are a layered motif: first make chain loops, then form petals with long pull-up loops. Keep petals consistent by measuring loop height each time. The pearl will be sewn into each flower center after blocking.
23. Round 44: Round to tidy and connect corner petals to side mesh: sc around entire square, working extra sc where necessary to even counts. Aim for 88 sts (8 additional anchor sts added evenly) (88)
24. Round 45: Form secondary mesh: *sc in next 4, ch6, sk 4* around to make larger openwork between corner flowers and butterfly (88 elements)
25. Now the square has a clear centre, side mesh, and corner fans. If any side feels pulled, redistribute by adding an evenly spaced sc increase on that side to bring the whole unit square. Blocking will finalize shape.

Corner Flower Detailing

1. Round 46: Detail each corner flower: Into the petal base (the short loop anchor) work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) in each petal to thicken shape (5 petals per corner) (88)
2. Round 47: After thickening petals, join petals with 1 sc between them and then in the corner center work a tight 6 sc circle to form a small base for the pearl (4 corner centers) (88)
3. Round 48: Sew-in base: sc around center base, then sl st to secure and carry yarn to next corner — each corner flower should be identical in height (88)
4. At this point check that all four corner flowers sit slightly raised above the surrounding mesh; adjust by adding a quick round of sc around any flower that looks recessed to bring it forward for pearl attachment.
5. Round 49: Decoration between corners: Work (ch3, sl st) chains to create a light connecting Garland across each side (approx 16 garland points) (88)
6. Round 50: Refine garland by working (sc, picot, sc) into each garland point making a decorative beading effect (88)
7. Round 51: Even round: sc around entire square to bind all decorations and make a solid base for edging (88)
8. Make sure to count your spaces and stitch placements — the corner flowers must align with side scallops. If you altered counts to even out sides earlier, document your counts so edging remains consistent.
9. Round 52: Start layered petal detail on each corner: attach yarn at petal edge and work (sc, ch4, sc) five times to mark petal tips (resulting tip anchors: 5 per corner) (88)
10. Round 53: Work petal finishing row: Into each ch4 tip do (sc, long lp, sc) making each petal raised and defined; sc between petals to anchor (88)
11. Round 54: Round to reinforce corner bases: sc evenly around, working extra sc into bases if petals seem loose (about 96 sts after reinforcement) (96)
12. If you prefer smaller corner flowers, you may substitute 5 short petals instead of long pull-up loops — adjust by substituting dc petals and keeping the same anchor counts.

Outer Mesh and Scalloped Edge

1. Round 55: Begin outer mesh: *sc in next 3, ch7, sk 3* repeat around to create airy side arches (96 elements)
2. Round 56: Into each ch7: sc, ch3, sc, ch3, sc forming double-arched fans (approx 32 fans) (96)
3. Round 57: Round to stabilize: sc into each sc and anchor point around (96)
4. Round 58: Form small scallops between large fans: *(picot, sc) in the base of each fan* across each side (96)
5. These outer mesh rounds increase the openness and create the pretty lacy frame. Keep tension even so fans lay flat; if fans have a ripple, adjust hook size down one step and rework if needed for future squares.
6. Round 59: Work (1 sc, ch5, 1 sc) into the apex of each large fan to create secondary chain loops, then sc around (approx 120 total stitch positions after expansion) (120)
7. Round 60: Refine with a round of sc into each ch5 anchor and each sc to tidy (120)
8. Round 61: Begin scalloped border: *(sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) in each large fan apex* repeat around (24 scallops total) (120)
9. Round 62: Between scallops: sl st to next, then ch3 and sl st to center of next scallop to add decorative connecting loops (this keeps scallops even) (120)
10. Scallops give the square its finished, ornate edge. Keep the number of scallops consistent; typically 24 scallops provide symmetry around the square. Adjust by adding or subtracting small anchors equally across opposite sides if necessary.
11. Round 63: Work a second round on scallops: in each scallop do (sl st, 3 dc, sl st) to raise the profile (120)
12. Round 64: Picot edging pass: *sc into center of scallop, (ch3, sl st in ch1 from same sc) picot*, repeat around (120)
13. Round 65: Final tidy round: sc evenly around to hide tail ends and lock the border (120)
14. Fasten off and weave in ends but leave long tails at center of corner flowers for bead sewing. Now block the square: wet-block or steam-block, pinning to a square with corners at 90 degrees. Blocking opens the lace and fixes the shape.

Beading and Final Embellishments

1. Round 66: Sew pearls: Using strong thread and a sewing needle, sew a pearl into the center of each corner flower, securing with 3-4 passes and knotting on the wrong side. Trim thread ends and hide them under stitches (4 pearls)
2. If you prefer, add a small dab of fabric glue under the bead for extra security. Allow glue to dry fully before re-blocking lightly around bead area.
3. Round 67: Optional surface embroidery: Add a few French knots or tiny embroidered veins on the butterfly wings using a contrasting thread if desired — keep motifs sparse to preserve lace look.
4. Round 68: Final finishing: Weave in all remaining tails using a tapestry needle, trim flush, and double-check that leaflets and petals are symmetrical after blocking.
5. Although listed as rounds, some finishing steps are applications rather than fully crocheted rounds. The total structure numbers are intentionally high to provide very small, clear steps for reproducing the complex lace and to allow an experienced crocheter to modify easily.

Optional Joining (for making blankets)

1. Round 69: If joining squares together, plan seam placement: use sl st join in BLO around the perimeter of the square and join to neighboring square's FLO to give seam a decorative ridge. Begin joining at one corner and work across edges.
2. Round 70: Joining technique: Align motifs with beads in mirrored positions to create continuous pattern. Work 1 sc in each sc of the joining side, sl st to corresponding sc on adjacent square; repeat to make a nearly invisible seam.
3. When joining multiple squares, block each square first. If making a bedspread, add a lightweight lining or backing to reduce stretching while in use.
4. Round 71: Optional: Add a narrow slip-stitch border after joining the entire assembly to unify and tidy outer edges (1 round of sc around entire joined piece).
5. Round 72: Final inspection: check bead security, weave in any exposed ends, and lightly steam or re-block if needed.