Brown and White Geometric Square

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Notes & Gauge

1. This pattern is written in rounds and short-row partial rounds. Gauge is not critical but target approximately 14 dc and 8 rows = 10cm/4in using 5.0mm hook in worsted cotton. Work loosely enough to create soft texture but tightly enough to avoid large holes in colorwork arcs.
2. Always use stitch markers to mark the beginning of rounds. The square is worked from the center outward. Color changes are done by completing the last yarn over of the last stitch in the old color with the new color, carrying short tails to weave in, or by fastening off and sewing in ends if preferred.

Center Medallion

1. Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 2 (counts as first dc). Work 7 dc into ring. Join with sl st to top of ch-2. (8)
2. Round 2: Ch 2, dc inc in each st around (work 2 dc in each stitch). Join with sl st to top of ch-2. (16)
3. Round 3: Ch 2, (1 dc, inc) x 8 around. Join. (24)
4. Round 4: Ch 2, (2 dc, inc) x 8 around. Join. (32)
5. Round 5: Ch 2, (3 dc, inc) x 8 around. Join. (40)
6. Round 6: Ch 2, (4 dc, inc) x 8 around. Join. (48)
7. Check that your medallion lays flat. If there is cupping add one more increase round: (5 dc, inc) x 8 = 56 sts. I used 48 sts to keep a compact center that allows stacked semicircles to sit inside.
8. Round 7: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each st around. Join. (48)
9. Round 8: Ch 1, switch to accent off-white for a small puff detail: Make 8 cluster-puffs spaced evenly around center. To make a cluster-puff: *Yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yo, insert same st, pull up loop (5 loops), yo, insert same st, pull up loop (7 loops), yo and draw through 7 loops, ch 1 to close cluster*. Work total 8 clusters, placing them in every 6th stitch approximately. Join. (visual placement; stitch count remains 48)
10. The puff clusters create a raised medallion look. Keep tail ends tucked and weave in later. If you prefer a flat center, skip cluster round and work one round of sc instead.

Inner Arc (lower semicircle)

1. We will work a partial round across the lower half of the square to create a semicircle. Place a removable marker at the start point on Round 7 of the medallion to denote the centre-bottom position. The semicircle will use 24 stitches of the 48 total — i.e., half the circumference — and be worked in short rows (joined rows) to build height. Start with the darkest arc color (espresso).
2. Round 9: Change to dark brown (espresso). From the centre-bottom stitch, work turning-row: ch 1, sc in same st and in next 23 sts across the lower half of the medallion (work across 24 stitches). Do NOT join into a full round; leave a tail or removable marker at the end. (24)
3. Round 10: Turn work. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc across in back loops only (BLO) in each of the 24 stitches. (24)
4. Round 11: Ch 2, hdc inc across: (3 hdc, inc) x 6 to shape the arc slightly (increase in 6 evenly spaced places across the 24 stitches) resulting in 30 stitches. This creates a slight bulge to the semicircle while staying attached to the round medallion at the base. (30)
5. Working in BLO for one of the arc rounds creates a defined ridge and helps the arc stand forward. Keep short rows even and use stitch markers at the ends of the turning rows to maintain stitch counts.
6. Round 12: Ch 2, hdc across all 30 sts. Turn. (30)
7. Round 13: Ch 2, (4 hdc, inc) x 6 = 36 sts. Work across to create gentle flare. (36)
8. Round 14: Ch 2, work 1 hdc in each st across (36). Fasten off dark brown if changing color to caramel for next arc. Leave an approx 8cm tail for weaving. (36)
9. If you prefer the arc to be deeper, add one more increase round: (5 hdc, inc) x 6 = 42 sts. The pattern as written uses 36 for a moderate semicircle depth.

Middle Arc (caramel)

1. Round 15: Join caramel color at the right-hand edge stitch of the latest turning row. Ch 1, sc across the same turning-row edge stitch and continue sc across the 36 stitches of the arc foundation (36). This creates a tidy transition edge. (36)
2. Round 16: Ch 2, dc across in each stitch across the 36 sts. Turn. (36)
3. Round 17: Ch 2, (5 dc, inc) x 6 = 42 sts. This slight increase spreads the arc to align with the later Granny field. (42)
4. Round 18: Ch 2, dc in each st across (42). Fasten off caramel if changing to taupe for the inner arc. (42)
5. Keep an even tension across color joins. If you prefer not to carry yarn along the back, fasten off and weave in; the join will be hidden inside the lacy field.

Inner Arc (taupe)

1. Round 19: Join taupe at the right-hand edge. Ch 2, dc across 42 sts. Turn. (42)
2. Round 20: Ch 2, (6 dc, inc) x 6 = 48 sts. This returns you to the medallion circumference count and helps the arc transition into the full-round granny field. (48)
3. Round 21: Ch 2, dc across 48 sts. Fasten off taupe and switch to background cream on the last yarn over of the final dc (or fasten off and join cream). (48)
4. At this point the lower stacked arcs are complete. The stitches around the medallion and the arcs now total approximately 48 stitches which will become the basis for the full rounds that expand into the square.

Upper Arc (mirror top semicircle)

1. We will now mirror the semicircle process at the top of the square to create the stacked motif — dark brown at top, caramel in middle, taupe inner. The same short-row approach is used, starting from the centre-top stitch on Round 7 medallion.
2. Round 22: Locate centre-top stitch on Round 7 (directly opposite the lower semicircle start). Join dark brown. Ch 1, sc across 24 stitches to form the first turning row for the top arc (mirror of Round 9). (24)
3. Round 23: Turn, ch 2, hdc in BLO across 24 sts. (24)
4. Round 24: Ch 2, (3 hdc, inc) x 6 = 30 sts. Turn. (30)
5. Round 25: Ch 2, hdc across 30 sts. Fasten off dark brown. (30)
6. Round 26: Join caramel at right-hand edge of the turning row. Ch 1, sc across 30 sts. (30)
7. Round 27: Ch 2, dc across 30 sts. Turn. (30)
8. Round 28: Ch 2, (4 dc, inc) x 6 = 36 sts. Fasten off caramel. (36)
9. Round 29: Join taupe at right edge. Ch 2, dc across 36 sts. Turn. (36)
10. Round 30: Ch 2, (5 dc, inc) x 6 = 42 sts. Join with sl st to the corresponding stitch on the surrounding cream round to rejoin the full-round structure. (42)
11. Now both semicircles are in place, stacked top and bottom, with the center medallion visible between them. Check symmetry by folding square in half; top and bottom arcs should align visually.

Transition to Full-Round Granny Field

1. Round 31: With cream background, ch 2. Dc evenly around the whole piece into each stitch and into the sides of the short-row turning rows until you return to the start. Aim for ~80 dc total across the full circumference (counts will vary where short rows created extra stitches; guide is to work 1 dc in each stitch available). Join. (approx 80)
2. Round 32: Ch 3 (counts as dc). *Sk 2 sts, 3 dc cluster (shell) in next st, sk 2, dc in next st* Repeat around to create initial lacy field. Adjust spacing slightly to keep square shaping. Join. (approx equal number of shells around)
3. These rounds form the lacy granny-like field that fills the square around the central motif. Keep shells evenly spaced and use stitch markers in four quadrants to help maintain symmetry for later square formation.
4. Round 33: Ch 3, 2 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 2, 3 dc in same space (corner shell). *Move to next ch-2 space, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc* Repeat for four corners. Between corners work 3 dc clusters in each shell space. Join. (This begins making the piece square by forming corner shells)
5. Round 34: Ch 3, work one shell (3 dc) in each 3-dc group from previous round, and form corner shells (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same corner spaces. Join. (piece now clearly square-shaping)
6. Round 35: Ch 3. Work around repeating pattern: 3 dc in each shell cluster, ch 1 between clusters where needed to even out the edge, and corner shells in each corner. Join. (maintain even stitch numbers on each side)
7. Round 36: Ch 3. Work one round of DC in each stitch on the sides and continue to build corner shells. This round will smooth the transition between lacy shells and the next denser border. Join. (counts vary)
8. At rounds 31–36 you are translating the circular motif into a square. Count shells on each side: you should have the same number of shells per side for symmetry. If one side has an extra shell, adjust by adding a ch-1 space in an adjacent section to even it out before continuing.

Square Expansion (even rounds to build size)

1. Round 37: Ch 3, dc in each st and in each ch-1 space along sides and (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 spaces. Join. (even round across the whole square)
2. Round 38: Repeat Round 37. This gives two rounds of smooth dc to stabilize shape. Join.
3. Round 39: Ch 3, *3 dc in next space (forming a small 3-dc group), ch 1, skip 1* Repeat across sides, making corner shells as before. Join.
4. Round 40: Work 1 dc in each st across and in each ch-1 space to tidy side spacing. Join. (use stitch counters to ensure each side matches)
5. Repeat the two types of rounds (one textured/shelled and one smoothing dc round) until your square reaches desired size. The sample square measures approx 16 x 16 cm / 6.5 x 6.5 in when worked in worsted cotton and 5.0mm hook after Round 44. Continue until you reach the size you want — here we will continue to Round 44.
6. Round 41: Repeat Round 39 pattern to continue texture. Join.
7. Round 42: Repeat Round 40 smoothing dc round. Join.
8. Round 43: Repeat Round 39. Join.
9. Round 44: Repeat Round 40. Join. At this point the square body should measure approximately the target size given above. If your square is smaller, work one additional pair of texture + smoothing rounds (Rounds 45–46) to enlarge.
10. Check diagonal measurements to ensure square shape. If corners are pulling in, add an extra ch-1 space on the last textured round to relax tension. If corners are flaring, omit a ch-1 gap on that side to tighten.

Decorative Open Shell Round

1. Round 45: Change to cream border shade if you used the same color already. Ch 3 (counts as dc). *Sk 1, 5 dc shell in next st, sk 1, dc in next st* Repeat across each side, making corner shells (5 dc, ch 2, 5 dc) in corner spaces. Join. This creates a larger decorative shell row along the edge. (counts vary)
2. Round 46: Ch 1, sc in each st and in the center of each 5-dc shell work sc, creating a neater surface. Join. (smoothing detail)
3. This round helps form the chunky textured border visible in the photographs. Work carefully into shell centers to maintain even spacing.

Corner and Edge Refinement Rounds

1. Round 47: Ch 3, dc in each stitch around. In each corner ch-2 space work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). Join. (this evens tension across the square)
2. Round 48: Ch 1, sc in each st around to produce a tidy base for final edging. Join. (counts will be roughly equal on each side; ensure corners have 3 sc in corner to preserve shape)
3. At this stage the square should look like the sample. If you'd like a thicker border, work an additional round of sc in the same color before the rope border.

Final Rounded Rope Border (to mimic the lifted, tubular edge)

1. Round 49: Switch to 4.0mm hook if you prefer a slightly tighter, neater final edge (optional). With cream, ch 2, hdc in each st around, putting (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in each corner ch-2 space to maintain square corners. Join. (hdc rounds create a boxed, rope-like edge)
2. Round 50: Ch 1, BLO sc in each st around to add a faint ridge along the outside edge. Join. Fasten off and weave in ends neatly into the back of the work.
3. Use a tapestry needle to weave tails along the back through several stitches and trim. Use a light steam block to encourage the square to lie flat. Pin corners square while blocking.

Optional Extra Rounds for Larger Projects

1. Round 51: If making a blanket panel, continue with an extra repeat of the texture + smoothing rounds: ch 3, 3 dc shells spaced, corner shells, join. Then follow with a smoothing dc round. Repeat in pairs until the square reaches the size needed for your project. Each pair of rounds adds about 0.8–1.2 cm depending on yarn.
2. Round 52: Repeat smoothing dc round. Join. Maintain symmetry by keeping equal numbers of shells per side.
3. When joining multiple squares, leave long tails at two adjacent edges of each square for mattress-stitch or slip-stitch join. Alternatively, join as you go with continuous crochet join for a seamless look.

Finishing Touches

1. Weave all ends in on the WS with a yarn needle. Block gently: dampen and pin to square shape or use steam. Trim stray fibers. If joining into a blanket, I recommend a flat slip-stitch join in cream to let the motifs read clearly.
2. For coasters or placemats, reinforce final round with a thin line of fabric glue on the back of the outermost round if extra stiffness is desired. For washability, use cotton yarn and machine-wash on gentle cycle then reshape while damp.