Milky Lavender Granny Square Bedspread

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Overview

1. This pattern describes one 8-petal raised flower granny square (milky background, lavender petals). Gauge will vary; the sample squares are made in worsted weight cotton blend using a 5.0mm hook and measure approximately 7" square after light blocking. The motif uses puff clusters and extended front-loop stitches for sculpted petals. Work in joined rounds as described or make multiples and join later. Keep stitch markers to mark petal centers and round starts.

Notes & Puff Stitch

1. Puff: Yo, insert hook, yo, pull up loop (repeat 3-5 times depending on puff height), yo and pull through all loops on hook, ch1 to close puff (counts as 1 stitch). In this pattern the puff is worked as a 5-loop puff unless otherwise indicated. Maintain consistent loop height for uniform petals.

Flower Center (Lavender)

1. Round 1: Make a magic ring. Work 6 sc into magic ring. Pull tight. (6)
2. Round 2: Inc in each st around – 2 sc in each st. (12)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x6. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6. (24)
5. Change to lavender yarn here if you started center in cream; in our sample the very central round remains cream for a tiny eye then lavender begins for petals. If changing color, join in any stitch and carry tail neatly to weave in later.
6. Round 5: Switch to lavender. (3 sc, inc) x6. (30)
7. Round 6: 1 sc in each st around. (30)
8. Round 7: 1 sc in each st BLO around to create a shallow ridge for petal base. (30)
9. Mark the beginning of this round – you will use the ridge as a guide to place petal clusters evenly. Count out groups of (30/8) = 3–4 stitches per petal base; we will create 8 petals, so some petals will occupy 3 stitches and some 4 for even spacing. Use stitch markers to mark 8 evenly-spaced starting points.
10. Round 8: Placement round: *sc in next 3 sts, ch2, sk 1 (or sk 0 to adjust), rep from * until 8 markers are reached; adjust so you have 8 ch2-spaces. End with sl st to first sc. (30, with 8 small ch-spaces)
11. We used 30 base stitches to give a tighter petal placement. If your count ends at 32, adjust petals to fit 8 petals evenly – the pattern relies on 8 petals equally spaced.
12. Round 9: Petal Set Up: Work in each ch2-space around: join with sl st to first ch2-space, ch1, (sc, ch1) into same sp, sl st to next ch2-space and repeat for each petal base – this creates shallow separation points. End sl st. (placement only, no change in overall st count)
13. Petal shaping begins next. Keep yarn tails long for weaving or hide ends between petals when switching colors.
14. Round 10: Petal Round 1 (foundation): Working into the first ch1 sp made at each petal base, join yarn and ch2 (counts as first hdc), then work 3 hdc into same space, hdc into next 2 base stitches (or into next 2 sc if your distribution uses 3-stitch petals), sl st to tip point. Repeat for each of the 8 petals. End sl st. (This round builds petal bulk; stitch count across base remains the same but you are building height.)
15. Round 11: Petal Puff foundation: In each petal top (the small gap/space you created), work 1 ch1, 5-loop puff (yo, insert in designated top st or space, pull up loop; repeat 4 more times; yo pull through all loops), ch1 to close, sl st to base. Make 8 puff clusters total, one per petal.
16. Keep the puff stitch yarn-overs consistent. A 5-loop puff gives a prominent petal; if you want a flatter petal use 3-loop puff. Secure each puff with a ch1 to prevent gaps.
17. Round 12: Working behind the puffs (toward the center), sc around the center base across all stitches: sc in each base st between puffs to encircle the petal bases neatly. (30 sc around center)
18. Round 13: Petal Fulling round: For each petal, create scalloped edge by working: in space behind puff, (sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st) across the puff top to create uniform petal shape. Repeat for 8 petals. This is decorative and does not change the main circular count as you are working into the front loops and top of puffs – just ensure symmetry.
19. After this round your petals will be clearly raised and rounded. If petals are too flat, on future squares work taller stitches in the center of each petal (tr or extended dc).
20. Round 14: Petal secure round: Working in the V of each stitch behind petals, sc in each st around and when you reach the small ch1 spaces between petals, work 3 sc into that space to anchor petals to the center. (approx 34–36 sc depending on your anchor increases)
21. Round 15-18: Work 4 rounds even in sc or hdc (your choice) around petal base to create a small collar that stands slightly proud of the square body. Suggested: Round 15: 1 sc in each st (34). Round 16: 1 sc in each st (34). Round 17: 1 hdc in each st (34). Round 18: 1 hdc in each st (34).
22. If you prefer a tighter center, use sc for these rounds; for a softer blended center use hdc. Keep the 34-st count by distributing increases evenly when you encounter corner extra stitches.

Transition to Square (Cream)

1. Attach milky cream yarn with a sl st to the back loop of any stitch at the outer petal collar. We will now arrange into a square using corner chain-spaces to allow later joining. From here forward all counts will be presented as totals at end of round, and corner instructions will be explicit.
2. Round 19: First cream round: Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, *dc in next 4 sts, (dc, ch2, dc) in next st to form corner; rep from * 3 more times, dc in next 4 sts, sl st to top of starting ch3. Count: 4 sides x [4 dc per side + corner cluster 2] + initial stitches; approximate total 40–44 dc depending on exact distribution. Relay count as follows: (4 sides x 4 dc) = 16 dc + 4 corners x (dc, ch2, dc) = 8 dc = 24 dc + starting dc's = 2 = ~26; because outer base had 34 sts you'll be spreading them across corners – the key is four evenly spaced corners.
3. On motif-to-square transition rounds it is more important to place corners evenly than to hit a precise single number; aim to create 4 corner ch2-spaces placed approximately at the midpoints between groups of petals such that the square grows evenly.
4. Round 20: Work 1 dc into each dc around, and in each corner (dc, ch2, dc). (Maintain same total count as last round; simply build height) – approximate total ~40–48 dc depending on spacing.
5. Round 21: Switch to a shell-border starter: *sk 1, (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) in next st as a corner-shell, sk 1, 2 dc in next 3 sts; rep around; sl st to join. This round begins to square the motif visually. (Corners create ch2 spaces and shell density per side will be 4–6 shells depending on exact stitch distribution)
6. Count per round will vary by how you allocated the 34 base stitches earlier; use the pattern of shells and corner shells to shape evenly. Mark corners with a removable marker for future rounds.
7. Round 22: Shell expand round: In each side, work (ch1, sc) between shells then (2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) in shell spaces; in corners work (2 dc, ch3, 2 dc) to expand corner ch space. This expands the square and stabilizes corners. (Total clusters per side will increase by 1–2; approximate total stitches 80–96 depending on distribution)
8. From now on we will work rounds that increase the number of shell clusters per side to form a larger square. For consistency, after each round count clusters per side and ensure symmetry: each side should gain equal cluster repeats.

Body Square Rounds (Cream)

1. Round 23: 1 sc in each st around, working (3 sc) in ch3 corner to maintain square. (Est. total 100 sc)
2. If your total differs slightly, do not worry; keep the 3-sc corner grouping for a smooth square growth. Using sc in this round stabilizes the layout before more openwork rounds.
3. Round 24: Openwork round: *ch3, sk next 2 sc, (dc, ch1, dc) in next sc, ch3; rep across each side, (dc, ch2, dc) in corners. This adds airy chain spaces that echo the motif openness. (count varies by side; ensure symmetry)
4. Round 25: Build round: Work 2 dc into each chain-space created, 1 dc in each dc. In corners work (dc, ch3, dc). This begins to unify the shells into a regular square pattern. Approx totals will increase by 32–40 stitches per round as chain-spaces are replaced by dc pairs.
5. Check alignment with adjacent squares if you are working more than one motif; chain-spaces align with future join points. If using join-as-you-go (JAYG), you will use these ch3 spaces to attach to neighbor squares in later joining rounds.
6. Round 26: Even round: 1 dc in each st around; corners remain (dc, ch3, dc). Count increases modestly; this seals previous openwork into a neat surface for joining. (Est. 140–160 dc)
7. Round 27: Shell repeat: On each side, *sk 2, (3 dc) in next st, ch1; rep until corner, (3 dc, ch3, 3 dc) in corner. Rep around. This creates clearly visible shell groupings to read as decorative rows. (Total shells per side will now be visible; total stitch count depends on side shells x3dc)
8. At this stage your square should visually read as a square with shells and chain spaces. Keep counts similar on opposite sides to avoid skewing the square. Pin the square flat and count clusters per side if needed.
9. Round 28-35: Repeat sets of: 1 even dc round, 1 openwork round (ch3 and dc groups), and 1 shell-building round to increase the square size evenly. For example: R28: even dc; R29: openwork; R30: shell; R31: even dc; R32: openwork; R33: shell; R34: even dc; R35: openwork. Each 3-round set grows the square roughly 0.5" – 1" depending on yarn/hook. After round 35 the square should be roughly 5-6" across (unblocked).
10. Measure after round 35. If you want larger squares like the sample bedspread (approx 7" finished), continue the same 3-round sets until desired size is reached. Our sample continued to round 60 for the bedspread squares.

Extended Body Rounds for Full Bedspread Size

1. Round 36-60: Continue the motif of: even dc round, openwork round (ch3 spaces replaced by 2-dc clusters), and shell round (3-dc shells and corner ch3 expansions). Specifically: R36 even dc; R37 openwork (ch3 spaces), R38 shell (3dc groups and corner ch3). Repeat this 8 more times adding visual rows and square size. By round 60 the square in our sample reached roughly 7" after gentle blocking. Maintain corners as (3dc,ch3,3dc) for stable joins later. Total stitch counts will vary but maintain equal repeats per side for symmetry.
2. If you are making a whole bedspread, make a gauge swatch of 4 squares joined to determine the number of squares needed across and down to cover your bed dimensions. For example, a twin bed in the sample used 6 squares across and 8 down (48 squares). Adjust as necessary.

Decorative Rounds & Corner Reinforcement

1. Round 61: Switch to a slightly smaller hook (4.5mm) if you like a tighter decorative edge. Work 1 sc in each st around; in corners work (sc, ch2, sc). This tightens corners in preparation for joining. (Total similar to previous but sc instead of dc)
2. Round 62: Picot round (optional): *sc in next 2 sts, (sc, ch3, sl st to first ch) as picot edge at your chosen interval (e.g., every 4th stitch), repeat around. In corners, place a picot inside ch2 corner. This adds a delicate edge. End with sl st. (Count varies by placement)
3. Picots add a vintage vibe and help hide minor join irregularities. If you prefer a modern neat edge, skip picots and do two rounds of sc instead.
4. Round 63: Finish round: 1 hdc in each st around, working (hdc, ch2, hdc) in corners. Fasten off and weave in ends. At this point each square is finished and ready to join.

Joining Options (Choose One)

1. Option A: Join-As-You-Go (JAYG) – Works well for continuous, neat joins. Option B: Mattress stitch / whipstitch after blocking. Option C: Decorative join using slip-stitch ladder or single crochet join for raised seams. All options use the corner ch3 spaces on each square.
2. Join-As-You-Go Option (JAYG): When you reach the final round on a square and approach a corner, instead of making a corner ch3, you will sl st into the corresponding ch3 space of the placed neighbor square; then continue final-round stitches, connecting each side in turn. For clarity: with RS facing, align squares RS together or RS out based on your preferred join look, and when you arrive at a side, sl st into neighbor ch3, then continue shell pattern. Repeat for each side as you place new squares; corners: sl st into corner ch3, ch3, sl st into same neighbor ch3 to make corner sturdy.
3. JAYG keeps the blanket from flaring at seams and is efficient for large spreads. Use a matching cream yarn for invisible joins or a contrasting lavender for decorative lines.
4. Mattress Stitch / Whipstitch Option: Block all squares (see blocking notes). Lay squares RS up and align edges. Using a darning needle and matching yarn, mattress stitch through the visible loops along the sides, taking equal depth from each square to close gaps. For a reinforced seam, sew twice across each join. Fasten off and weave ends securely.
5. Slip Stitch Ladder Join: With RS facing you, hold two squares together and using a hook with cream yarn, work slip-stitches through the front loop of the first square and the back loop of the second square, forming a neat ladder seam. Repeat all around. This join lies flat and creates a subtle ridge.
6. Choose a joining method that matches your bedspread usage: Mattress stitch for a soft, flexible blanket; slip-stitch ladder for a slightly more structured seam; JAYG to finish squares quickly as you make them.

Border Options (Pick One)

1. Border Option 1 – Simple Picot Edge: With RS facing and working in continuous rounds around assembled blanket, join cream yarn at any point. Round 1: 1 sc in each st around, placing 3 sc in each corner. Round 2: *sc 3, picot (ch3 sl st to base), repeat around. Fasten off and weave ends. This gives a delicate finish.
2. Border Option 2 – Classic Scallop: Round 1: 1 dc in each st around, (dc,ch3,dc) in corners. Round 2: *sk 2 dc, (5 dc) in next dc as scallop, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc; rep around. This creates a prominent scalloped border about 1-1.5" wide depending on yarn.
3. Border Option 3 – Braided Rope Edge: Round 1: 1 sc in each st around. Round 2: Work alternating fpdc and bpdc across, placing 3 fpdc in corner to keep it flat. Round 3: Repeat fp/bp round to accentuate twisted rope look. Fasten off. This option gives a modern, sturdy finish for everyday use.
4. All border rounds should be blocked lightly after completion to even the blanket. Consider adding an accent lavender ladder row 2 rounds in from the edge for a framed look matching the petal centers.

Finishing & Blocking

1. Block each square by pinning to measured templates and spritzing with water or using a steam iron at safe distance on the wrong side. Allow to dry completely before joining. After joining, block the whole blanket for a final even finish. Weave in ends using the yarn needle and hide ends in stitches on the wrong side. Trim any visible tails and neaten joins by re-stitching if needed.

Troubleshooting & Adjustments

1. If your petals look squashed, make puff loops fewer (3 instead of 5) or switch to a slightly thicker yarn for increased loft. If square sides curve in, add extra chains into corner ch3 (make ch4) to flatten. Conversely reduce corner chain to ch2 to reduce flaring. Practice the petal rounds on a swatch to get consistent puffs before making many squares.

Stitch-by-Stitch Recap for One Square (Condensed)

1. Round 1: Magic ring, 6 sc (6)
2. Round 2: Inc x6 (12)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
6. Round 6: sc around (30)
7. Round 7: sc BLO around (30)
8. Round 8: Placement round to make 8 small ch-spaces around center for petal bases (30)
9. Round 9: Petal setup: sc & ch1 placements in ch-spaces to prep petals
10. Round 10: Petal base: join color and work hdc groups and hdc across base to build petals
11. Round 11: 5-loop puff in each petal top (8 puffs)
12. Round 12: sc around petal bases to anchor (30 sc)
13. Round 13: Petal scallop shaping across puffs (no change main count)
14. Round 14: Anchor round with occasional 3-sc increases between petals (34–36 sc)
15. Rounds 15-18: Even sc/hdc collar rounds around petal base as desired (34 sc/hdc)
16. Round 19-23: Switch to cream and form first square rounds with (dc, ch2, dc) corners to make four ch3 corner spaces and begin shells
17. Round 24-60: Alternate openwork (ch3 and dc clusters), shell-building, and even dc rounds to expand the square until desired size (repeat sets). Maintain corner (3 dc, ch3, 3 dc).
18. Round 61-63: Decorative rounds finishing with hdc and picots or scallops per choice. Fasten off and weave tails.
19. Repeat the above for as many squares as needed. The sample spread in the photos used 49 squares (7×7) with each square blocked to 7" finished and joined with cream join-as-you-go and a scalloped border. Adjust counts and rounds for your desired finished square size.